Strawberry Bat Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

Strawberry Bat Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

This strawberry bat amigurumi pattern blends a strawberry and a bat into one small creature. The body is crocheted in single crochet from the bottom up, the wings spread wide in a classic bat silhouette, and tiny embroidered seed dots finish the strawberry look.

It suits crocheters who already know basic amigurumi techniques, and it takes roughly 12 to 18 hours across several sessions. The finished piece stands about 7 inches tall, with wings spanning around 14 inches.

this …

Everything below follows the original free strawberry bat amigurumi pattern, including the stitch counts, the hook size, and the finished measurements.

About This Strawberry Bat Crochet Pattern

The pattern makes a chubby strawberry shaped body with a bat head, pointy ears, a small snout, and outstretched wings. The red body is worked in continuous rounds. The cream wing membranes are dotted with gold embroidery to suggest strawberry seeds, and a green leaf crown sits on top of the head like a calyx.

The body and head are one continuous piece worked from the bottom up. The ears, wings, and leaves are flat pieces that are attached as you go, and the final assembly comes at the end.

Skill level is intermediate. You should be comfortable with continuous rounds, increases and decreases, and attaching multiple components. Anyone who has finished at least two amigurumi projects should find this one achievable with a little patience. The same shaping habits carry over to other small toys, including these duck crochet pattern ideas.

Materials You Will Need

Gather everything before you make the first stitch. A complete pile of supplies keeps the color changes and the assembly steps calm and organized.

Along with the yarn, you will need:

• A US size G 6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook
• Two 12 mm black safety eyes
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing, about 3 oz (85 g)
• At least 3 stitch markers
• A yarn needle for assembly and embroidery
• Scissors
• Straight pins for positioning the pieces before sewing

Lion Brand Pound of Love is a good match, with Scarlet for the red, Cream for the wing interiors, and Grass Green for the leaves. Any smooth worsted weight yarn that meets gauge works too. Skip fuzzy or highly textured yarns, because they blur the crisp stitch definition that gives the finished toy its fruit like look.

Gauge

Correct gauge influences both the finished size and the firmness of the piece. With a 4.0 mm hook and Color A, single crochet worked in continuous rounds should give 5 stitches per inch (2.54 cm) and 5 rounds per inch (2.54 cm).

To test it, crochet a small swatch:

• Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (6).
• Round 2: 2 sc in every stitch around (12).
• Round 3: (sc, 2 sc in the next stitch) around (18).
• Round 4: (sc 2, 2 sc in the next stitch) around (24).
• Round 5: (sc 3, 2 sc in the next stitch) around (30).

Flatten the circle. It should measure about 2.4 inches (6 cm) across. If yours comes out larger or smaller, move your hook up or down one size and swatch again.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

If you are new to amigurumi, read this list carefully before you begin. Every abbreviation used in the pattern is here.

• MR, magic ring: make an adjustable loop, work stitches into it, then pull the tail to close the center hole. It is the standard start for pieces worked in the round.
• ch, chain: wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop already on the hook.
• sl st, slip stitch: insert the hook, yarn over, and pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook in one motion.
• sc, single crochet: insert the hook into a stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop so 2 loops sit on the hook, then yarn over and pull through both loops.
• hdc, half double crochet: yarn over, insert the hook, yarn over and draw up a loop so 3 loops sit on the hook, then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
• dc, double crochet: yarn over, insert the hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, leaving 2, then yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops.
• inc, increase: work 2 sc in the same stitch.
• dec, invisible decrease: go through the front loop only of the next stitch and the front loop only of the stitch after it, yarn over and pull through both front loops, then yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.
• sc2tog, single crochet two together: the ordinary visible decrease, used only in the wings.
• st(s), rnd, rep, pm, RS, WS: stitch or stitches, round, repeat, place marker, right side (facing outward), and wrong side (facing inward).

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

• Work the body and head in continuous rounds. Do not join the rounds with a slip stitch.
• Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
• The body and head are one continuous piece, worked from the bottom of the body up through the top of the head without cutting the yarn.
• Stuff firmly as you work, adding stuffing before the opening becomes too small. Firm stuffing helps the piece hold its shape and keeps the attached components secure.
• All flat pieces, meaning the wings, ears, and leaves, are worked in rows with turning chains. The turning chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
• Insert the safety eyes before you close the head, between rounds 20 and 21, spaced about 5 stitches apart at the center front.
• Left and right are described from the perspective of the finished figure facing you.

Body and Head Instructions

Make 1 body and head piece, crocheted continuously from the bottom upward, starting in Color A.

• Rnd 1: magic ring with 6 sc, then pull the tail closed (6).
• Rnd 2: inc in every stitch around (12).
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
• Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (24).
• Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around (30).
• Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) around (36).
• Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) around (42).
• Rnds 8 to 10: sc in each stitch around (42 in each round).

Checkpoint: after round 10 the flat bottom of the body should measure about 3.4 inches (8.5 cm) across. Begin stuffing from here onward.

• Rnd 11: (sc 5, dec) around (36).
• Rnd 12: sc around (36).
• Rnd 13: (sc 4, dec) around (30).
• Rnd 14: sc around (30).
• Rnd 15: (sc 3, dec) around (24).
• Rnd 16: sc around (24).

The body is finished. Rounds 11 to 16 taper the upper body into the shoulders. Without cutting the yarn, continue straight into the head shaping.

• Rnd 17: (sc 3, inc) around (30).
• Rnd 18: (sc 4, inc) around (36).
• Rnd 19: (sc 5, inc) around (42).
• Rnds 20 and 21: sc around (42 in each round).

Checkpoint: insert the safety eyes between rounds 20 and 21, about 5 stitches apart at the center front of the head, and press the washers firmly into place inside.

• Rnd 22: sc around (42).
• Rnd 23: (sc 5, dec) around (36).
• Rnd 24: (sc 4, dec) around (30).
• Rnd 25: (sc 3, dec) around (24).

Add more stuffing now, filling the head and the upper body firmly before the opening narrows any further.

• Rnd 26: (sc 2, dec) around (18).
• Rnd 27: (sc, dec) around (12).
• Rnd 28: dec around (6).

Fasten off with a tail about 6 inches long. Thread it on a yarn needle, weave it through the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, then knot and weave in the end. Checkpoint: the finished body and head piece should measure about 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) tall.

Ears Instructions

Using Color A, crochet two ears. Begin with a ch 2, then work 5 sc into the second chain from the hook. Do not join. The ear is worked in rows.

• Row 1, right side: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the first stitch, sc across to the last stitch, 2 sc in that final stitch (7).
• Row 2: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every stitch across (7).
• Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the first stitch, sc across to the last stitch, 2 sc in the last stitch (9).
• Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across (9).
• Row 5: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 5, dec (7).
• Row 6: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 3, dec (5).
• Row 7: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 1, dec (3).
• Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc3tog. To work it, insert the hook into the first stitch and pull up a loop, then into the second stitch and pull up a loop, then into the third stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw through all 4 loops (1).

Fasten off, leaving a tail about 10 inches long for sewing. Before attaching, fold each ear slightly along its vertical axis so it forms a gentle cup. Sew the ears to the top sides of the head around rounds 18 and 19, at about the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions when you look at the head from above.

Snout Instructions

Using Color A, make one snout.

• Rnd 1: magic ring, 6 sc (6).
• Rnd 2: inc in every stitch around (12).
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
• Rnd 4: sc around (18).

Fasten off, leaving a tail about 12 inches long. Leave the snout unstuffed and flatten it a little. Place it centered on the front of the face so its lower edge lines up with round 17 of the head. Sew around the outer edge but leave a small opening, add a tiny bit of stuffing, then close it completely.

Wings Instructions

Make two wings. Each wing is built in two stages. First you crochet the inner flat panel in Color B. Then you add the outer edge, the scalloped wing points, the veining, and the seed dots in Color A and Color D.

Wing Inner Panel

Using Color B, begin with a foundation chain of 21.

• Row 1, right side: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, then sc across (20).
• Rows 2 and 3: ch 1, turn, sc in every stitch (20 in each row).
• Row 4: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 16, dec (18).
• Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across (18).
• Row 6: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 14, dec (16).
• Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across (16).
• Row 8: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 12, dec (14).
• Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc across (14).
• Row 10: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, dec (12).
• Row 11: ch 1, turn, sc across (12).
• Row 12: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec (10).
• Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc across (10).
• Row 14: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec (8).
• Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc across (8).
• Row 16: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec (6).
• Row 17: ch 1, turn, sc across (6).
• Row 18: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2, dec (4).
• Row 19: ch 1, turn, sc across (4).
• Row 20: ch 1, turn, work two decreases (2).
• Row 21: ch 1, turn, sc2tog to finish with 1 stitch (1).

Fasten off. This triangular piece is the main membrane of the wing.

Wing Outer Edge and Scallop Shaping

Hold the wing panel with the right side facing you and attach Color A at the top right corner of the foundation chain edge.

1. Work a sc border across the top edge, placing 1 sc into each foundation chain loop (20).
2. In the top left corner stitch, work 3 sc.
3. Continue with sc evenly down the left long diagonal edge, using about 1 sc for each row end (roughly 21 sc).
4. At the bottom point of the wing, work 3 sc into the single tip stitch.
5. Sc evenly back up the right diagonal edge, matching the left side count (about 21 sc).
6. At the top right starting corner, work 2 sc to finish the corner, then join with a sl st to the first sc of the border. Do not fasten off.

Turn the piece so the wrong side faces you, then work along the lower diagonal edge to create the scalloped bat wing points.

Work this sequence 3 times, evenly spaced along the lower edge: sl st into the next sc, ch 8, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, then sl st into the same border sc.

Those 3 scallop points produce the classic multi lobed bat wing silhouette, spaced at the outer third, the middle third, and the inner third of the wing. Fasten off Color A and weave in the ends.

Wing Veining

With Color A and a yarn needle, add 3 straight lines of surface slip stitches to the right side of the wing panel. All three lines start from the same point on the top edge, near center right:

• Line 1 runs diagonally down to the outermost wing point scallop.
• Line 2 runs from that same starting point to the middle scallop.
• Line 3 runs from that same starting point to the inner scallop.

Wing Seed Dot Embroidery

Thread Color D on a yarn needle and scatter about 8 to 12 tiny seed dot stitches across the cream panel of each wing. To form each dot, bring the needle up from the wrong side to the right side, then insert it back down very close to the entry point. Spread the dots unevenly so they look natural.

Strawberry Leaf Crown Instructions

Make 1 crown using Color C. It is made of 5 separate leaves that are joined together at a center ring.

Individual Crown Leaves (make 5)

Each of the 5 crown leaves begins with a chain of 8.

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 3, hdc, dc, then 3 dc in the last ch. Continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain with dc, hdc, sc 3, and sl st in the first sc. That gives about 16 stitches around. Fasten off, leaving a tail about 6 inches long.

Joining the Crown

Using Color C, crochet a small flat ring: make a magic ring, work 5 sc into it, and close with a sl st. Sew the base of all 5 leaves evenly around the ring, fanning them out to resemble a strawberry calyx.

Attach the whole crown assembly to the top of the head, centered over the closed top, and pull the small stem tip of the ring upward to form the strawberry stem nub.

Wing Tip Leaf Clusters

With Color C, make 2 clusters, for 4 leaves in total. Each leaf starts with a ch 6.

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 2, hdc, 3 dc in the last ch, then work back along the opposite side with hdc, sc 2, and sl st. Fasten off, leaving a tail. Bundle the pairs together at their base and sew them to the tip of each wing at the outermost scallop point.

Leg Nubs (Optional)

Make 2 leg nubs in Color A. They let the strawberry bat stand on its own instead of leaning against something.

• Rnd 1: magic ring, 6 sc into the ring (6).
• Rnd 2: inc in every stitch around (12).
• Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18).
• Rnds 4 and 5: sc in each stitch around (18 in each round).
• Rnd 6: (sc, dec) around (12). Stuff lightly.
• Rnd 7: dec around (6).

Fasten off, leaving a tail about 10 inches long, and sew one leg nub to the lower front of the body on each side.

Assembly

Assembly goes in order, so nothing gets sewn twice.

1. Confirm the snout is sewn to the center front of the face.
2. Confirm the ears are attached at the top sides of the head.
3. Confirm the leaf crown is sewn to the top of the head.
4. Position the left wing against the left side of the body so its wide top edge aligns with rounds 16 through 22 and the wing angles slightly downward. Pin it in place.
5. With Color A, sew the straight top edge of the left wing along the body side, stitching through 6 to 8 body stitches to anchor it firmly. Repeat for the right wing.
6. Attach the wing tip leaf clusters to the outer scallop of each wing.
7. Attach the leg nubs to the underside of the body.
8. Review the piece from all angles and weave in all remaining yarn ends securely.

Care Instructions

Wash the finished piece by hand in cool water with a gentle detergent, and avoid wringing it. To remove excess water, press it gently in a clean towel, then reshape it by hand and let it air dry flat. Store it out of direct sunlight so the colors do not fade.

Safety note: if the toy is for a child under 3, replace the safety eyes with eyes embroidered in black yarn. That removes the small part hazard completely.

Size Customization Tips

The stitch counts stay the same at every size. Only the yarn, the hook, and the eye size change.

If you enjoy shaping wings and sewing small attached details, our free dragon amigurumi designs use many of the same skills. Take your time with the wing edges, and the finished strawberry bat will be worth every round.

FAQs